Dust-Aid Taking Orders

[Edward Bussa]

We have updated the information, March 29th 2007, as follows:

http://www.openphotographyforums.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif Dust-Aid Taking Orders
The new sensor cleaning aid called Dust-Aid (http://www.dust-aid.com/) is finally shipping!

Be sure to check the Compatibility Chart (http://www.dust-aid.com/cameras.html) before going HERE (https://pro27.abac.com/rosswordhouse/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DS&Product_Code=DA1&Category_Code=) to place your order.

Price is $39.95 w/ $4.95 shipping, but if you enter "PMA07" in the Coupon Code at checkout, you will $5.00 off (shipping free).

Disclaimer: I am NOT affiliated with Dust-Aid in any way, I just need to clean my sensor but am afraid of all the other methods...

[KrisCarnmarker]

Thanks Ed.

What makes you feel safer about Dust-Aid? Seems to me like one of the less safe options.

I can just see the sensor come out with the Dust-Aid! (just kidding :) )

[Edward Bussa]

I read about the swabbing method and if you get too much liquid on the swab, you can damage the sensor.

I read about the brush and if you accidentally touch an oiled part of the assemblies, you can damage the sensor.

I read about the blowers and how there have been incidents of them blowing hot plastic bits (from the gears or fan?) onto the sensor, creating one of those "welded" bits you can't get off.

You can't take swabbing liquids on planes, etc...

This seems safer... no?

[Kathy Rappaport]

I took a class that was sponsored by Canon for professional photographers recently. We went over all of the advanced settings and custom functions and one of the issues we discussed was sensor cleaning.

The only way they recommend you clean your sensor is with a bulb blower - nothing else. Beyond that, they recommend you have them clean the sensors for you. Since I live in So. California, I am fortunate to be able to drive to the Canon repair facility and if I call ahead they will repair or clean while I wait - not an option for everyone.

Never change your lenses in an open environment (not always a practical suggestion);
Always have the lens ready to put on when you take the old one off
Always hold the camera lens opening down so nothing can fall into it.
Always hold the blower so things fall out.

[KrisCarnmarker]

Well, Ed, what you describe are all accidents or improper usage of the tool. I don't see how the Dust-Aid would be immune to that. What if you get oil on the Dust-Aid pad? What if the pad detaches itself from the flag instead of the sensor? There's a million things that could go wrong with any solution.

[Edward Bussa]

What if you get oil on the Dust-Aid pad?

Yes, point taken. However, unlike a brush, it has dimensions that are in proportion to the sensor and sensor chamber. A brush is round and has indefinite edges, therefore easily bumped against edges, unaware.

Also, the pad is throw-away and will perform far better than a brush alone. However, for the price, you could throw away the brush after each use I suppose.



What if the pad detaches itself from the flag instead of the sensor?

Take a little closer look at the product, and you'll find that there are two different adhesives. The side that attaches to the flag is a much stronger adhesive.




There's a million things that could go wrong with any solution.

You are free to take your chances with products that involve "solutions". Thankfully, this is one product that doesn't. =D

[Michael Fontana]

Dust-Aid has my attention too, as it doesn't involves liquids, hoovers, butterflies, etc.

As long as the Dust-Aid- "foam" doesn't leaves anything on the sensor, this looks to be the less dangerous way of cleaning, toe me, too.

Dust-Aid-states:
" The biggest concern with adhesive sensor cleaning is residue contamination from the adhesive. This product has been tested using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and showed no adhesive residue or contamination in the FTIR spectrum analyses after applying it 100 times to a KBr crystal. "

I don't believe every add, but this looks like to be serious. Picking up a new "foam" for each cleaning processus avoids too a contamination of the sensor with old dust. With a spoiled brush, I once tried to clean the sensor; it was worse; I had to spend about 200 $, and waisted some 6 hours to get that cleaned by Canon rep.

Somebody of the pack here, alredy tested Dust-AiD?

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

Dust-Aid-states:
"The biggest concern with adhesive sensor cleaning is residue contamination from the adhesive. This product has been tested using Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) and showed no adhesive residue or contamination in the FTIR spectrum analyses after applying it 100 times to a KBr crystal. "

Sounds impressive, doesn't it? Equally impressive, or even more so than the plasma charger purportedly used by "Visual Dust" on their brushes.
Even when assuming it to be true, all it suggests is that the adhesive layer didn't leave residue on a KBr crystal in their test (we'll assume that test was conducted under a number of environmental conditions). Unfortunately, it will be applied to a (coating layer on a) glass window or an IR blocking filter, which is a different material. So to me it is marketoid speak until further notice.

I don't believe every add, but this looks like to be serious. Picking up a new "foam" for each cleaning processus avoids too a contamination of the sensor with old dust.

True, but as long as the same surface is used only once, that applies to several other methods as well. It is also unclear how it will work on sticky stuff like pollen or dried up droplets.

Another issue with adhesives, especially with lower Relative Humidity levels, is the creation of static (dis)charge upon removal (reduced air pressure)!

With a spoiled brush, I once tried to clean the sensor; it was worse; I had to spend about 200 $, and waisted some 6 hours to get that cleaned by Canon rep.

I've also experienced brushing a smear of presumably grease transfer from the mirror box or shutter mechanism. Cleaning the brush with alcohol and re-brushing solved that issue, I didn't even have to use a Pecpad.

Having said that, maybe "Dust-aid" works as advertized, but I'll wait for others to find out.

Bart

[John_Nevill]

Bart,

I have to agree with you. The adhesive may leave no residue in the lab, but i'm equally a little skeptical of an adhesive / contaminant mix residue.

Who knows what microscope particles and organisms sit inside the mirror box!

Are there any scientists among us who would hesitate a guess on the adhesive's base material?

Oops, reality check time, this is photography forum :o

Lets wait and see what end users have to say.

[Sean DeMerchant]

Always hold the camera lens opening down so nothing can fall into it.

Instead they fall into the back of the lens and then enter the mirror chamber. Holding both level to the ground always seemed more reasonable than exposing either the lens or the mirror chamber to sky/ceiling.

a thought,

Sean

[Stan Jirman]

I think I'll stick to my home made sensor swabs that worked very well for my 1Ds MK1&2, and wait for the MK3 with sensor cleaning element :)

[Stan Jirman]

I have to agree with you. The adhesive may leave no residue in the lab, but i'm equally a little skeptical of an adhesive / contaminant mix residue.
It even says in the ad:

> If you already have welded on dust or liquid stains then this product will have no effect.

So much for "wet stains".

[Paul Bestwick]

I have found the Artic Butterfly effective. I have never used any other method so I am not able to give a comparison. I can only say that I have gone from much dust to hardly any with the Artic. I am kinda touchy about swabs & liquids on my sensor.

Cheers,

Paul

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

I have found the Artic Butterfly effective. I have never used any other method so I am not able to give a comparison. I can only say that I have gone from much dust to hardly any with the Artic. I am kinda touchy about swabs & liquids on my sensor.

I've had the VD (no disease, yes overpriced, yes they work fine) sensor brushes available even before taking delivery of my 1Ds Mk2. My thinking behind it, is to avoid friction and pressure to a minimum (after all, the IR+AA-filter coatings may be 'softer' than lens coatings because they are not supposed to be touched). I only used (Copperhill) sensor swabs a couple of times to get rid of persistent spots when they took too much time to retouch every time on my images.

I have so far not tried the spinning versions, because I do have a question:
Does the spinning and static built-up make the bristles/fibers spread so they can touch the walls of the mirror/shutter chamber? How does the shape of the fibers keep over a longer period, or does it spread so much that it becomes harder to put the protector cap back on?

Bart

[Steve Quattrocchi]

For a long time I used the Visible Dust brushes but found them innefective. I have done a few wet cleans of my DSLR's and only once did I get some lube on the AA filter (due to my bad eyesight)

I tried out the Arctic Butterfly and was very impressed. No canned air, solutions etc. It's airport safe and easy to clean if the brush does get contaminated. THe new product looks interesting and if it works that would be great but I spent too much on cleaning equipment to spend any more money...:)

[Mike Bailey]

Starting way back with the D30 I've tried the bulb blower method which everyone knows works poorly at best. Sensor swabs and solution work, but figuring out the minimum solution required is a key. I often used too much and had to redo my own work to get rid of streaks. By the time I was using the 20D I started using the VIsible Dust brushes to good effect. I managed to get oil transferred from the mirror chamber wall to the sensor filter more than once, which then meant using up a few sensor swabs. But it's been about a year since I did that. Maybe I'm learning.

With the 5D I bought a full-size VIsible Dust brush, but after using it once or twice started using the smaller APS size brush again and doing a couple of passes. The latter works better because it's far easier to NOT get chamber wall gunk transferred. Initially I used old Sensor Swab paddles to clean the walls. That works well as long as one is careful to not drag it hard enough to tear fibers off the swab. I think a number of people have found the smaller APS size Visible Dust brush works better on the full-size sensor filter than the bigger one for this reason (easier to maneuver). I've cleaned the brush a couple of times with dish soap and cold water. After a lot of rinsing and a good drying, recharging it with a Giotto Rocket Blower does the trick (takes 30 or 40 vigorous puffs just before use).

For what all that's worth....

Still it'd be very interesting to hear from someone here how well the Dust-Aid method works.

Mike

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

Thanks Ed!

I ordered one. I have some ideas of how to test it first. I'll report when done.

Cheers!

[Edward Bussa]

[...] I have some ideas of how to test it first. I'll report when done.

You mean other than cleaning your camera? ;)

I ordered a kit as well (in case you haven't guessed).

I feel comfortable with the testing they've done. Although, I did just read someone on another forum report a pad splitting while stuck to the sensor and having to peel it off with their fingers. No damage done but several sensor swabs were required to clean the mess up. However, the very next post was someone from Dust-Aid asking for the kit back (I assume with a full refund) so they could analyze it. They also said that in their extensive trials they never ran into anything like that.

So... Life is Risky, eh? Choose. =D

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

You mean other than cleaning your camera? ;)
Yes. :-)

Risking $1,500 over $35? I'm not taking *that* kind of chances...

I mean, all their Fourier Trasform tests sound fine and dandy, but I want to make sure the residue is REALLY non-existent.. Besides, all it would take is a sacrifice of one or two of their 'sticky rectangles'.. Prolly $5 worth, no biggie...

I'll post my results in any case...

[Michael Fontana]

Dust-Aid has a camera compatibiliy list: look here (http://www.dust-aid.com/cameras.html)

It's not really clear, what this compatibilty means.

[Bart_van_der_Wolf]

It's not really clear, what this compatibilty means.

The compatibility refers to different anti-reflection coatings used on the sensor array's coverglass, or AA/IR-filter combination, or anti-dust glass.

On cameras like the EOS 5D, a softer coating is apparently used, which also prompted a company like Photosolutions to change the formula of their "Eclipse" cleaner.

Bart

[Michael Fontana]

thanks, Bart

correct me if I' m wrong, IMHO this list doesn't says anything about residue contamination from the adhesive - on the different sensors.

[Jörgen Nyberg]

All the cameras under "Don't use", have anti-dust shake thingies.
Probably a risk of pulling it lose from it's socket.

Jörgen

[Edward Bussa]

If you've placed an order for the Dust-Aid product, you can cancel it by sending an email to sales@dust-aid.com.

My camera, Pentax K10D, is on the DO NOT USE list. The Compatability Chart was first posted on the Dust-Aid site Monday.

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

I just went off the phone with them.
My order (#12xx), placed March 20, is already back-ordered. ETA 3 weeks from now (I understand that's a restocking, so it will still take some time to s/h), so it looks like the end of April for me...:-(
Darn...

[Edward Bussa]

Dust-Aid has finished testing the special coating on the 5D sensor filter.

The video and more info here (http://www.dust-aid.com/5d.html).

[Ken Doo]

I never had much problem with "dust" on the Cann 5D---or at least never noticed much since I usually am shooting portraits. But with landscape use (big open sky and greater DOF!) you can really see dusting issues with the 5D FF sensor.

I really don't think that any single method can be relied upon for effective satisfactory sensor cleaning. I have the Visible Dust kit, the "wet" Copperhill kit, Lens-Pen (haven't tried it yet---but soon to be added to the regimen) and now the Dust-Aid kit.

The Visible Dust Sensor brushes do seem to work ----but not always. The "wet" Copperhill Method seems to be more capable at removing stubborn spots, but at times I feel that even with repeated cleanings (new pads every swipe) a stubborn dust spot seems to just be moved to the edge of the sensor---better, but not really clean.

I added Dust-Aid out of feigned frustration----I first used the Visible Dust method, then Copperhill, and ended with Dust-Aid on my Canon 5D. Simply stated it worked.

I think it really sucks that I've had to invest in all these sensor cleaning products, but unfortunately, I just don't think that any single method works 100% of the time. I've found that an occasional cleaning is best----and this sometimes means using a combination of methods to see which works. My complete regimen starts with Visible Dust (loosen); Copperhill (stubborn particles); optional Lens-Pen method to get the edges; Dust-Aid to finish.

I do have to say that after using the Dust-Aid method in combination with other methods, my sensor is the cleanest that I have been able to achieve with some satisfaction.

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

Thank you for sharing, great to hear.
So, you've already got it? When did you order? I'm still waiting for mine:-(

[Edward Bussa]

I haven't gotten my package yet either!

My camera, the K10D is not on the list of compatible cameras - they don't claim compatibility with any camera that has a mobile, dust-shaking censor.

The guy I talked to said the lack of compatibility had to do with the pressure on the wand and the censor mounting points.

It seems like if I'm careful about the pressure, it should be okay... ?

[Ken Doo]

I actually have had my Dust-Aid kit for several weeks now. I ordered it off of the Copperhill site. I was skeptical, but placed some confidence in the apparent endorsement of Dust-Aid by Copperhill.

I do wish that there was a "magic bullet" for cleaning digital sensors----I just don't believe that any one cleaning system provides the be-all-end-all solution. Dust-Aid is a welcome addition to my cleaning arsenal. *sigh* Hands-down----the medium format digital back is much easier in handling dust....

[Michael Fontana]

Ken

probably I' ll decide between the arctic butterfly and Dust-Aid. Can you point out the pro and con's of these two cleaning systems. There' s one question, about the archtic butterfly: when cleaning the cap, does one need distilled water? Living in a area with lots of chalk in the water, chalk could become a issue...

[Ken Doo]

Michael,

I don't think I'm in any better position to point out all the pros/cons of the Artic Butterfly or Dust-Aid (or other systems.) ---I'm sure I'd probably leave something out! (And I have no experience with "chalk" in water). I'd suggest going to the Visible Dust site and the Dust-Aid site and then comparing the features/limitations that are of interest to you. For example, some photographers are concerned with flying with chemicals---and so both of these two systems are good alternatives here.

Again, I've found that each system I've invested in has individual characteristics/abilities worth adding to my cleaning arsenal---enough so that I felt compelled to open my wallet! Still searchng for the magic bullet! Also, you may not be as compulsive and find that a singular cleaning approach provides satisfactory results.

ken

[jacob smith]

My concern with this dust-aid thing is, after doing one corner and moving on to the next, say dust-aid does pick up some particles. When moving onto the next corner with 2 others remaining, who's to say that the particles already stuck to the dust-aid won't scratch a part of the sensor that's clean and in which it comes in contact with.

I have some stuff on my D70 (which belongs to my father now), but refuse to clean the sensor and just work the stuff out in post processing.
Messing with these sensors is just too risky for the coin I put into them.

[Ken Doo]

My concern with this dust-aid thing is, after doing one corner and moving on to the next, say dust-aid does pick up some particles. When moving onto the next corner with 2 others remaining, who's to say that the particles already stuck to the dust-aid won't scratch a part of the sensor that's clean and in which it comes in contact with.

I have some stuff on my D70 (which belongs to my father now), but refuse to clean the sensor and just work the stuff out in post processing.
Messing with these sensors is just too risky for the coin I put into them.

Your first time is always scarey and can be a little disconcerning. Once you lose your virginity cleaning your first sensor, subsequent cleanings can be quite satisfying and almost, ahem, enjoyable.

[Anthony Arkadia]

Bulb blower is the best way to keep dirt off of your sensor once it is cleaned. It is a shame that Canon builds these cameras in the desert, because it is sad when you pay $7,000.00 for a brand new camera and the sensor it so bad you see dirt at F4!

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

My concern with this dust-aid thing is, after doing one corner and moving on to the next, say dust-aid does pick up some particles. When moving onto the next corner with 2 others remaining, who's to say that the particles already stuck to the dust-aid won't scratch a part of the sensor that's clean and in which it comes in contact with.

I have some stuff on my D70 (which belongs to my father now), but refuse to clean the sensor and just work the stuff out in post processing.
Messing with these sensors is just too risky for the coin I put into them.

Jacob,
you never have to deal with the sensor. It's covered by the GLASS. Ever tried to scratch a mirror with a knife? Ceramics (glass is one of them) are known to be one of the hardest materials on Earth known to man.
Do yourself a favor, do the famous "mirror test". Get a pocket mirror, your SO may have some, like the one in the powder-box. In fact, get *the* powder-box", since it provides you with both things you'd need for a test - a glass surface and a powder dust.
Examine the surface to the best of your ability. Then dust it with the powder (one puff is enough:-). Then do whatever you're so afraid to do to your sensor. Blow, wipe, vacuum, use the dust-aid.. Have a ball.
Finally, reexamine the surface again. See any scratches?
No?
I thought so...

NOTE: this does not apply to the newest breed of the bodies with the shaking surfaces/sensors. It's them you *really* need to be careful with...

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

I was all set to write them this coming Monday, but a few minutes ago I have received an email that my order has been finally shipped. Yippee! :-)

[Anthony Arkadia]

Dust Aid DOES NOT REMOVE residue...... So why buy it? If it does not blow off with a rocket blower your only other alternatives are Sesnor Klear (Which Canon uses) https://www.micro-tools.com/store/item_detail.aspx?ItemCode=SK1 or Sensor Swabs with Eclipse or Eclipse E2 (<-- for the 5D) for TIN OXIDE Sensors. http://www.photosol.com/eclipse_e2product.htm.
Anything else is a waste of your money!
Here is a quote from Dust Aid.
Welcome To DUST-AID!
We've all been hunting for a safe and easy way to remove dust from our DSLR sensors and finally the search is over, welcome to the world of DUST-AID.

This product is a perfect solution for removing static stuck dust and regular sensor filter cleaning which helps prevent "welded on" particles. If you already have welded on dust or liquid stains then this product will have no effect. It passes airport security and uses no liquids or canned air.

For best results, follow this procedure..

1: First use the Rocket Blower with the camera facing down at a 45º angle.
2: Then use 3 Sensor Swabs, follow their directions.
3: Then use your Sensor Klear Pen to do the outer parameter of the sensor.

You will achieve optimum results using this method. Once you have the sensor this clean, use a rocket blower once a week too keep residue buildup off of the sensor.

[Ray West]

Hi Nikolai,

Are not the sensor glass covers - whatever the current correct technical term is - coated with something that can relatively easily be damaged? I think there are some liquids that effect some coatings, and not others.

I used to clean oil from brake shoes many years ago by pouring petrol over them, and setting fire to them. I expect that would work quite nicely - (would need to be the right sort of petrol...)

Best wishes,

Ray

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

I'm not gonna argue over this. I voted "yeah" on this with my own money. I see the benefits, esp. on the road. If you don't - fine by me, it's your sensor(s) and your $...
Peace :-)

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

Finally arrived. Didn't have chance (or need) to try it yet, but I like the package a lot.

"This sort of things is my bag, baby" :-)

[Edward Bussa]

So did I - sitting on the table when I walked in!

One problem though! I sent my camera back a week ago for Pentax to figure out what is happening with the battery grip causing banding at high iso. So, I've got dust-aid, but no camera!

So, my reporting on Dust-Aid will come later...

[Michael Fontana]

Just for the sake of the tests: no one of you willing to spoil the sensor on purpose?
--Just kidding--

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

Just for the sake of the tests: no one of you willing to spoil the sensor on purpose?
--Just kidding--

Guys, I promised I would test it.
Just busy with some other stuff at the moment. Gimme a week or so...

[Steve Saunders]

I'm not too keen on the sticky pad type cleaners. Apart from concerns about the sticky stuff getting on the sensor, I'd be more worried about pushing a bit of grit into the sensor surface as the nature of these things means you to have to lightly press the tool onto the sensor.

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

...I'd be more worried about pushing a bit of grit into the sensor surface as the nature of these things means you to have to lightly press the tool onto the sensor.
Steve, did you ever use any of the "wet" methods? You have to push pretty hard, much harder than you do with Dust-Aid.

The stickiness is a totalyy differetn thing. One either believes in it or doesn't. Luckily, there are plenty of alternatives...

[Asher Kelman]

OPF has removed the commercial post here. We'll pretend it didn't occur.

Our opportunities to buy and sell are for photographers here. There's no fee, everyone is delighted that the buyer and seller benefit from the reuse of equipment.

However, we must protect the collegial nature of OPF. This is not a market for bulk purchased items!

Besides, there is too much hype. I don't believe yet that the new vibrating chips do a thing. I'm very skeptical. I feel that the chips can be cleaned carefully by a number of methods and the method you chose should be such that you will do it.

I am impressed by the brushes that get charged with air. The vacuum is no different than a blower, both bring in room air. But so what. Eventually we get the sensor clean. Usually just with the brush, every so often one needs a liquid. No big deal.

Asher

[Nikolai Sklobovsky]

My both sensors started to show some dusticles after few recent lens changes, and blower didn't help, so I thought it would be a good chance to try my new Dust-Aid kit.

Good news: I didn't notice any residue :-)
Not so good news: it didn't help either :-(

There was some particularly stubborn speck that didn't wont to go away.

Moreover, after few applications (I stomped the sensor a few times) I got the feeling that the smaller particlles are simply rearranged, as the pad picks some and leaves some back, often leaving more than picking.

I ended up using the old good Eclipse swabs.

I will keep the DA in the backpack (I love the tin case:-), but it's not gonna be my first choice for this task.

Morale of the story: almost any problem can be solved with the proper usage of the alcohol..:-)