View Single Post
  #3  
Old December 26th, 2007, 08:07 AM
Bart_van_der_Wolf Bart_van_der_Wolf is offline
pro member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 4,046
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug_Kerr View Post
I'm having trouble visualizing the principle here. Are you saying that the moiré phenomenon lets the viewer better discern the sharpness of the image of the "focus target", or what?
Hi Doug,

What happens as one manually adjusts the focus is that at the exact optimal focus setting the background will change from uniform gray into larger (colored) aliased dots when viewed on the camera's LCD. The circles and cross hair will allow to acquire AF easily, and when calibration is optimal, moiré will be maximized on the camera's LCD.

A procedure that works for me:
- I switch to LifeView, which in its current implementation will only allow manual focus.
- Optimize manual focus by searching for maximum aliasing. This will only occur a best focus (and assuming a decent enough lens is used), otherwise the defocus will act as a low-pass filter and prevent the aliasing.
- Switch off LifeView, and watch the lens barrel's focus indicator for the next step.
- Use AutoFocus (single AF spot) to focus on the (laptop) LCD screen, and watch the direction of adjustment. That will show whether the current AF calibration setting will front or back-focus.
- Apply an adjustment via the camera menu, and repeat the procedure. Once the adjustment is optimal, there will be no difference between manual and auto-focus.

The flat computer screen will prevent misinterpretation of the focus distance, because the AF system cannot react to phase effects from subjects at other distances. That makes it quite easy to get repeatable results. And because the computer LCD emits light, it can be easily done indoors, at common shooting distances for the lens to be calibrated for.

For super tele lenses it is probably easier (for distance reasons) to use a Zoneplate type of chart outdoors.

Bart
Reply With Quote