Challenge: Green Plants As Art

[Nathaniel Alpert]

From a morning walk in March '08.
Not flowers, but nearly as colorful. Notice that whereas the leaves don't turn fall colors in Hawaii, one side is red and the other side is green. So, no need to change.

[Gary Ayala]

One from the front yard

[janet Smith]

I love to be under trees looking up into the canopy, wish you could smell the grass and leaves and fresh air, funny some photographs bring the fragrance back to me.....

[janet Smith]

...wayside weed.. that caught my eye,

Teasels

[Dawid Loubser]

Originally Posted by Asher Kelman

You're using slide film. What kind that you are confident of the exposure with one shot? I presume you have a lightmeter or it's in your head? Do you print in the wet lab or just scan. Also, how do you scan?

Hi Asher: The technical section below my posted image somewhat answer your questions: Provia 100, scanned on Epson V700. I scan using Vuescan (pathetic user interface, but good results) with multi-pass scanning. I do final finishing and output via Apple Aperture.

I have never understood why people bracket their shots (especially when using negative film or digital): Taking a reading with an incident meter gives you a 100% accurate reading, no questions asked. This is usually good enough already, for most scenes. Otherwise, if you purposefully wish to under- or over-expose the scene to benefit some other aspect (such as a bright background) you are in full control as to how much you adjust exposure by. There are 0.0% unknowns in this scenario, and I have always had the feeling (sorry if I offend anybody here) that photographers who bracket shots are very unsure of themselves, or are not doing incident light metering.

For example, this shot here was the same: Potentially tricky lighting, but I took an incident reading, took the (one) shot exactly as per the reading, and it came out 100% as per my expectation. Because incident light meters do not lie, and are not fooled by the colour or intensity of reflective surfaces. Of course, the trick is knowing *which* part of the light to measure, and here I measured by pointing the incident meter away from the camera, in the sunlight, because that usually yields good results for translucent leaves.

(Provia 100, Mamiya RB67, 250mm f/4.5 old single-coated lens at f/4.5)

Lastly, even though slide film has rather poor dynamic range, I find it still handles blown highlights much better than linear digital capture, in that there is still sufficient shoulder to not blow out to a direct white in almost all circumstances - it's a gradual falloff.

[janet Smith]

I was a beautiful warm weekend, Autumn is beginning (my favourite season)......enjoy....

[Asher Kelman]

Assembled above are a few examples of unique splendor centered on the unique patterns, textures, shapes, stature and even personality of green plant forms. Look through your catalogs and notice what's around us. Let's find the very best.

Asher

Not whole trees or bushes, but the subunits as in the examples! If you can center them on the page, it will be appreciated! :)

[Rachel Foster]

ISO 200, f/4.0, 1/500, hand-held.

[ArlineRyan]

Green Art Topiaries are carefully sculpted by our artisans in the field and then naturally preserved to capture their color and texture. Our topiaries look real because they are real junipers.
All Topiary Trees and Bushes come in a Paper Mache pot and can be upgraded to one of our decorative containers / urns. The measurement is from the floor to the top of the tree.

[Asher Kelman]

I take the last post as a bump. As it's a great idea to remind us of this thread, I'm deleting the spam but leaving this as a bump!

:)

Asher

[Cem_Usakligil]

Originally Posted by Asher Kelman

I take the last post as a bump. As it's a great idea to remind us of this thread, I'm deleting the spam but leaving this as a bump!

:)

Asher

The spam is still undeleted Asher! :)