The End of "Haute Couture?"

In the good old days, the “Haute Couture” shows were the most anticipated of all of the collections. It was akin to the Formula 1 of the fashion world. It is unique to Paris and all of the greatest designers the likes of Hubert de Givenchy, Christian Dior, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, , Valentino, Jean-Louis Scherrer, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Christian Lacroix and others would show the epitome of what they were striving for. These were prototypes of sorts and unique pieces of art that were considered the barometer of where fashion was going in the future. These architects of fabric and exotic materials would go to great lengths to establish their identity through their designs.

The press would come in hordes to get a view of these collections, to be the first to show them in their glossy fashion magazines. Shoots would be set up immediately after the collections and given to those magazines with the greatest influence on the public. Only the finest of glossies were given these collections to shoot and in order of priority. It was usually Vogue that was in place number “1″ and the rest would have to wait their turn. The constant bickering between Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar was always omnipresent. You could smell it in the air when the major editors would appear in the same room with each other.

The pecking order at the shows was very well defined and this was also mirrored in where the editors were positioned during the fashion shows. The first row was always a who’s who of the fashion industry and often, shows would not commence until “THAT” Editor in Chief was seated!

Unfortunately, times have changed and as a result of the social conditions, financial malaise and a radically shifted mind set, a new paradigm has emerged and “Haute Couture” seems to be unofficially at least, on Life Support. It is the “Pret a Porter” ready to wear collections that are now the “Queen of the Castle”.

There are a few of the greats and some emerging new designers that are attempting to keep the boat afloat with interesting eclectic designs that are a kind of melting pot of “Haute Couture Meets Pret a Porter”. Alexis Mabille is one designer that comes to mind, that I recently had the privilege to shoot for VOGUE Brasil.

Who knows, perhaps in a few years when we are out of this financial melt down, designers will have more time and money to play with and again produce pieces of art that will influence and inspire the fashion industry to take artistic risks again.

I certainly hope so…

http://www.benjaminkanarekblog.com/?p=707

Hi, Benjamin.

A lovely article. Thanks

I'm not a scholar on the subject but casual study suggests that surges in women's fashions (and that's really what you're talking about) peak approximately every 30 years. It also does not seem related to economic conditions. We saw one of the most creative surges in fashion and general design in the 1930s during one of the darkest economic periods in human history.

Rather, it seems most closely related to a generally optimistic social attitude. Even though the economic and political situation was grim in the 1930's there was a general sense that anything would be possible. There was also a live-for-today spirit. In the 1960's, the next big design surge, we were in the "Space Age"! Fly me to the moon, baby! The early 90's saw a surge buoyed by surging wealth (real or borrowed).

Today, however, we're a bit in the pits. The public is in the throes of deep cynicism about damn near everything. People have realized that they're actually broke. The world of the fashion magazine, the historical conduit for ego lust, is shriveling very fast and not being replaced by anything in particular. Topping off the barriers to the next fashion surge: women are much, much heavier than ever. I read a CDC stat not long ago that the average adult American woman (age 30-40) now weighs 163 lbs. That is by no means a size 2...or even a size 10. Hard to capture vanity fantasies when gravity is such a strong force in your life.

But younger people (20 somethings) seem to be more rational and savvy. They seem determined not to let themselves get self-indulgent and sloppy, financially or nutritionally. If this holds up then we'll probably see something like a new fashion design surge right on schedule in 2020.

Just observations from someone who, from a distance, finds "Haute Couture" simultaneously absurd and interesting.