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Initial views of the Acratech v2

John_Nevill

New member
Being nigh on 8000 miles away from California, I thought I try one their homegrown products, namely Acratech's V2 tripod head.

It arrived yesterday and my intial impressions are, good build quality, extremely lightweight, rigid and good value. I'm hoping to get out with it this weekend to test its smoothness of operation with some larger lenses etc. I'll let people know how I get on!
 

Erik DeBill

New member
John_Nevill said:
Being nigh on 8000 miles away from California, I thought I try one their homegrown products, namely Acratech's V2 tripod head.

It arrived yesterday and my intial impressions are, good build quality, extremely lightweight, rigid and good value. I'm hoping to get out with it this weekend to test its smoothness of operation with some larger lenses etc. I'll let people know how I get on!

I have the original UBH and love it. I'm really curious to hear how this new version compares.
 
I got one, too:)

Mine arrived less than a month ago (along with Manfrotto 4-section Magfiber NG edition).
Since it's my first good BH, I'm still considering myself quite inexperienced, but I like it. The cup-less design and the weight were the two big winners for me.
I'm thinking of getting a leveling base eventually, too, but that's a far cry:)
In the mean time I'm just trying to force myself to use the tripod as often as possible, simply to get accustomed to it.
 

John_Nevill

New member
Its definitely a novel design! I thought about a leveling base but a £4.99 hot shoe spirit level will suffice.

Mike, how do you set up the smaller of the two screws?, the sheet of paper says its factory set. Like an idiot, I passed it around at work today and fiddling fingers maladjusted everything!
 

Mike Spinak

pro member
John, I reset the smaller of the two screws frequently, depending on whether I am using a small, light lens or a large, heavy lens, and also depending on whether I am using it for types of photography where speed matters more or types where precision matters more.

Mike

www.mikespinak.com
 

John_Nevill

New member
Thanks Mike, I'll bear that in mind, when using it this weekend as I have a trip planned to an Otter and Owl sanctuary, so i'll be using 300+mm lenses on it.
 
John,

John_Nevill said:
... the sheet of paper says its factory set. Like an idiot, I passed it around at work today and fiddling fingers maladjusted everything!

The first thing I did when I received it was to try all the knobs.. Of course, I only read the paper sheet few hours later and said "oh-oh"..

Anyway, it's all fairly simple. Here is a simple "drawing":

93675242-L.jpg


In essence both screws can do each one's job, but to improve the handling, one is made smaller and and another larger. If you "open" the smaller one, the large one would let you to operate the ball faster, but it will take you extra effort to tighten it.
If you "close" the smallwe screw, then it will take you longer to open the ball with the large onw, but it will lock faster and tighter.
As Mike pointed out, small screw should be adjusted to handle different loads, setting it into its open, looser position when shooting wide-angle/mid-tele (in short, camera body on the tripod) and setting it tighter when you hauling big lass (lens on the collar is mounted).

Hope this helps!
 
Brian,
the largest setup I was using on my V2 was Canon 30D + TX 1.4 + EF 100-400 fully extended, mounted on a lens collar.
I should say that in this configuration there was some "slack" movement at the end, i.e. I failed to lock the frame precisely where I was wanted it to. The error margin was not huge (considering I was operating effectively 400 x 1.4TC x 1.6 crop = 896, almost 900mm lens!!), I'd say about 3/4 of the 30D inner circle. It aslo could be - and very possibly was - my lack of experience with the setup, so I don't have any regrets about the purchase - yet:)

HTH
 

Mike Spinak

pro member
I regularly use mine with a Canon 600 f/4 IS L lens and a 2x teleconverter on a Canon 1Ds2 with an L bracket, a 550 EX flash, and a flash extender.

It works fine.

Mike
 

Brian Lowe

New member
sidekick, king cobra or????

Mike Spinak said:
I regularly use mine with a Canon 600 f/4 IS L lens and a 2x teleconverter on a Canon 1Ds2 with an L bracket, a 550 EX flash, and a flash extender.

It works fine.

Mike

Mike,

With this setup are you using it with a sidekick or king cobra?

Thanks,
Brian
 

John_Nevill

New member
I promised Asher that i'd put this article up a few weeks back for those interested in my take on the UBHv2....

I ordered my Acratech v2 direct from the US and probably didn’t save much over the UK cost when you take the into account the import duty. However the delivery was fast and I added a couple of plates to the order which made it a little more cost effective.

The first thing you notice when you get it out of the box is its weight or lack of. At less than 1lb (.45kg) you immediately question whether its built to do the job. I can assure you it is!

I use a Manfrotto 055bpro tripod, which in itself is quite heavy, but putting such a lightweight head on it offsets the immediate need for a carbon fibre alternative (well almost!)

The Acratech v2 is a clamped ball design with two screws being used to tension the clamp. Both screws are rubberised and are easy to operate. The smaller screw sets up the main tension while the other locks off the clamp.

I decided to opt for a QR plate which includes a detent pin (for security) and rubberised plate clamp screw, which has a very coarse thread. Having used the Manfrotto QR system, I found the Acratech security pin less than ideal.

The overall build quality is superb with all edges generously radiused to ensure they aren’t sharp.

In the past I have been reluctant to use a tripod due to both laziness and the lack of a decent ballhead. So I decided to test this out and force myself into the habit of using one by taking it to a couple of Zoo visits.

My kit list for these outings included 20D, 1DN, 100mm macro, 70-200 and EF300 with 1.4x and 2x TCs.

I very rarely use a tripod or monopod with the EF70-200, so I’ll concentrate on using the Acratech with a 1DN and EF300.

I bought the appropriate lens plate for the EF300 and it fits well, the fitting requires an allen key (supplied). The screw itself is not captive e.g. not undercut. Acratech state that such undercutting weakens the fixing and i’d agree.

The lens plate fitted the EF300 like a glove and likewise one turn of the QR clamp screw provided sufficient room to slide the plate onto the Acratech ballhead mount before tightening. I found the detent pin a little awkward. I do wonder whether a lead in chamfer may help?

I loosened the large ball clamp screw and set the smaller screw clamp tension so that the rig was free to move with light friction. The rig balance was excelllent and the movement very smooth.

However, when it came to locking and unlocking the main clamp, while my eye was in the viewfinder, I kept inadvertently loosening and tightening the QR plate. In fact it almost became 2nd nature. So I decided to mount the plate the other way round. Maybe it was the wrong way round in the first place, but the manual I recieved was for version 1, so it was hard to tell.

I then tried the EF300 with a 1.4x TC, The balance was slightly off (due to pivot point change), but a slight adjustment of the clamp plate was enough to compensate.

Finally, I decided to mount the EF300 with a 2x TC and this time the balance went awry. Yes I could tighten the clamp, but to be honest I was pushing my luck. Perhaps I should invest in a sidestick of sorts!

The rigidity of the Acratech is surprisingly good for such a light ballhead. I managed to achieve 1/40 sec shutter speeds at 420mm (EF300 + 1,4x) with IS switched off. Although at 600mm (EF300 + 2x) , I didn’t really get anything sharp until 1/100s, even with a cable release.

In the past I have always compensated from lens dip, in other words I tend to lock the head off marginally higher than what I was focusing on, as the shear weight of the rig would flex the head. There was no sign of such flex on the Acaratech up to 300mm.

For macro work, the mount plate is on the camera and is customised for the 1D series cameras. It fitted the body excellently and its small footprint (unlike the Manfrotto QRs) didn’t seem to get in the way when holding the camera body vertically. Furthermore there was no sharp edges to dig in to your palm!

Macro work requires flexibility of movement coupled with rigidity. I can honestly say that it didn’t matter where I positoned the camera it stayed put and was rock solid.

Lastly, I mustn’t forget to mention the panoramic base. This is also smooth to operate and the scales are actually engraved in the material rather than printed, so as the paint wears off they will still remain legible.

Conclusion
A well made and rigid ballhead providing flexibility in a lightweight design at a good price. I’m a little dubious about the detent security pin, but the rubberised knobs are a must have. I’d thoroughly recommend it to anyone, who like me photoghraphs diverse subject matter. I sincerely wish Acratech made a sidestick of comparable quality and cost, then I would not have to forkout silly money for an alternative product.
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
John that was helpful! Thanks for the work.

Does anyone use this ballhead for portraits.

It would be nice to have a handle to wind the ballhead to each side or fore and aft!

I do have a rail, but I was thinking of something substantial for portraits that one can quickly adjust as the model moves her head to the side or up and down. Of course the trpod can be on abase with rollers. But it's a pain to lock and unlock rillers!

Asher
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
What updates do people have 2 years later. I'm about to buy an new ballhead and of course, thought of Really Right Stiff. But the new gimbal head from Acratech, the GP is an interesting alternative.


GP-Lg.jpg



Acratech GP Gimbal Head
Leveling Panoramic Head
when used Upside Down!



"Our new Acratech GP Ballhead is uniquely designed to function as a ballhead a Gimbal head and as a leveling base. This item is now in stock! Our new Acratech GP ballhead has all the benefits and features of our GV2 ballhead including the ability to function as a gimbal head and of course it still weighs less than 1 lb, but what really sets the GP apart from all our other ballheads is that it is also designed to be used upside down, allowing the ball to be used as a leveling base for stitched panoramic images. Even when using your tripod on rocky, uneven terrain the GP Ballhead allows you to pan parallel to the horizon, eliminating the need to carry a separate leveling base to create accurate panoramic images.
This ballhead includes our specially designed Quick Release Clamp, with bulls eye level, double speed rubber knob, and detention pin."

  • Works as a gimbal head with lenses up to 400 f4.0
  • Weighs less than 1 lb (.45kg) with quick release clamp.
  • Easily holds over 25 lbs (11.4kg) at any angle.
  • Full movements allow any camera position.
  • Precision C.N.C. machined.
  • Compatible with Kirk, Arca, R.R.S., and many other QR plates.
  • Fits all standard tripods (1/4-20 and 3/8-16 threads).
  • Lazer Engraved dual degree markings.
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
I found that B&H is selling the new version. Here's a picture of it set upside down so that it serves as a leveling base for panos!

IMG_116319.jpg


B&H sells the setup for $399 which is a savings since one does not have to pay an extra ~ $150-$200 for a leveling base.

Also when one has rotation from a level platform. (That can be an issue as the rotating function is usually below the ball and one then has to purchase an additional one if using a leveling base on top of that.

I'd love to know how practical this is in real use? Anyone know?

Asher
 

Nill Toulme

New member
Who needs a gimbal head for lenses up to 400 f/4? It's lenses above that range where the gimbal head becomes necessary and desirable.

Well, in fairness... I do use a Wimberley Sidekick quite often with the 70-200 f/2.8. Never mind. ;-)

Nill
 
I found that B&H is selling the new version. Here's a picture of it set upside down so that it serves as a leveling base for panos!

It looks very clever.

Also when one has rotation from a level platform. (That can be an issue as the rotating function is usually below the ball and one then has to purchase an additional one if using a leveling base on top of that.

I'd love to know how practical this is in real use? Anyone know?

The practicality of the rotation taking place at the top of a ballhead is significant. It's a must for serious single row pano work in combination with a no-parallax bar. It even helps if one uses the same setup for multirow stitching, although a full 3-axis rotation mechanism is preferable.

Cheers,
Bart
 
Last edited:

Doug Kerr

Well-known member
Hi, Asher,

I found that B&H is selling the new version. Here's a picture of it set upside down so that it serves as a leveling base for panos!

I'd love to know how practical this is in real use?

One problem with this, with respect to multi-shot panoramic photography, is that one cannot then have the camera axis above the horizon and still pivot the camera in azimuth about a vertical axis, shot-to-shot.

I have no experience in panoramic photography, but my guess is that in most cases of "single-row" work, one wants the camera axis at the horizon. In that event, the arrangement you show should be quite valid, and probably handy.

But it would seem to not be a solution for multi-row work.

I speak of course as a geometer rather than a panoramist.

Best regards,

Doug
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
One problem with this, with respect to multi-shot panoramic photography, is that one cannot then have the camera axis above the horizon and still pivot the camera in azimuth about a vertical axis, shot-to-shot.

My idea is that once level, I can

  1. Do single row Pano's with a wide angle or
  2. For virtual walk through images use a fisheye lens and take the nadir and azimuth freehand or just flip the head 90 degrees for the azimuth and do the nadir freehand.
  3. Use it a the base for up to 36 degree multilevel imaging

  • My little Gigapapan robot
  • Merlin Euro 499 (before VAT)
  • Really Right Stuff other Pano elements package.

    UltimateOPP-Pro.gif


The major time consumed in making panoramas is not taking the shots, but correcting for errors. I have discovered that I no longer can afford to take shortcuts in setting up that lead to 40 hours of meticulous corrections afterwards.

The Gigapan is reviewed in OPF, here and the new Gigagan Pro for heavy DSLR's, with even heavy lenses is now selling here at $895

homepage_content_epicpro.png


The Merlin is available here

KOLOR_Merlin.png


The RRS Stuff packages are available, including everything but an L bracket for the camera at $795 here

UltimateOPP-Pro.gif



Ultimate-Pro Omni-Pivot Package


Asher
 
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