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  #1  
Old May 11th, 2012, 02:45 PM
Chris Calohan Chris Calohan is offline
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Default Sunflower

This is my daughter's first attempt at a Platinum/Palladium print. It measures 8 inches x 8 inches and was produced from a digital negative.

I wish I had a better scanner to reproduce all the subtle tonal ranges in the original..but alas, while it is decent, it still lacks recording the more delicate values.





Ms Calohan: Sunflower
Platinium Print

scanned in consumer scanner


I am posting for her because I want to see how well I've taught her. Your comments will tell me a lot. the original image was shot on a Nikon FM2 35mm camera with a digitally scanned negative.
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  #2  
Old May 11th, 2012, 03:15 PM
Asher Kelman Asher Kelman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Calohan View Post
This is my daughter's first attempt at a Platinum/Palladium print. It measures 8 inches x 8 inches and was produced from a digital negative.

I wish I had a better scanner to reproduce all the subtle tonal ranges in the original..but alas, while it is decent, it still lacks recording the more delicate values.





Ms Calohan: Sunflower
Platinium Print

scanned in consumer scanner


I am posting for her because I want to see how well I've taught her. Your comments will tell me a lot. the original image was shot on a Nikon FM2 35mm camera with a digitally scanned negative.

Chris,

What a fortunate daughter! Also a thrill for you to have her be willing to share this fantastic process of image making. I would love to know your setup and as to whether this is exposed in the sun or under an array of UV lights?

I like the idea of showing the detail down to the hairs on the sepals.

Let me first comment on the composition. I happen to think the the sepals of a flower add a lot of gesture to such an image. We can see some of this at the top of the photograph. I'd wonder whether one needs to crop so tightly. Also i'd love to this print in some regular B&W process, for my own education.

Asher
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  #3  
Old May 11th, 2012, 04:04 PM
Chris Calohan Chris Calohan is offline
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She used an Ammonium Citrate developer followed by a light rinse in distilled water. This is followed by three trays of sodium thiosulphate fixing baths and a 25 minute wash. She chose not to tone this particular image but is going to try some different toning solutions developed by Tim Rudman soon.

This was exposed for one minute in light shade, two and a half minutes in full sun. Even allowing for a 10% density increase on drydown, I wonder if she didn't underexpose by another 15 to 30 seconds.
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Old May 11th, 2012, 06:32 PM
John Wolf John Wolf is offline
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Hi Chris,

I'm no judge of the print process, but the content and execution displayed here are wonderful. My only question mark is the large light area at the base of the flower. It seems a little bright to me, in the sense that the eyes are drawn there, yet it's the least interesting section of the subject. I'd be inclined to try one with that area toned down some. Overall, though, it's a real pleasure to view. Nature is downright miraculous, and you and your daughter have expressed it beautifully.

John
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  #5  
Old May 11th, 2012, 08:53 PM
Chris Calohan Chris Calohan is offline
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Unfortunately, that's where the scan didn't clarify the lighter tones. It is quite a delicate area. I'll see if I can scan that a bit better so you can appreciate the wonderful range she was able to achieve.

This is by no means her first alt pro print, but is her first PT/PD. She's recently discovered albumen and I think i am going to have to buy into an egg farm to keep her happy.
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Old May 13th, 2012, 10:45 AM
Mark Hampton Mark Hampton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Calohan View Post
This is my daughter's first attempt at a Platinum/Palladium print. It measures 8 inches x 8 inches and was produced from a digital negative.

I wish I had a better scanner to reproduce all the subtle tonal ranges in the original..but alas, while it is decent, it still lacks recording the more delicate values.





Ms Calohan: Sunflower
Platinium Print

scanned in consumer scanner


I am posting for her because I want to see how well I've taught her. Your comments will tell me a lot. the original image was shot on a Nikon FM2 35mm camera with a digitally scanned negative.
Chris - the tonal range I have is beautiful (on my sceen) - i guess in real life it will have more depth and subtlety. The rendering of the light is very delalcate.

how are you guys makinging your inter negs.

cheers
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  #7  
Old February 4th, 2013, 04:30 AM
Chris Calohan Chris Calohan is offline
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Sorry I didn't get back to you guys sooner..life, school and a new kid in the family got in the way of doing photography. The kid (the one who shot this) is at FSU majoring in Studio Art.

We made our digital negs through high res scans then curving to a set of pre-digitzed curves developed by Christopher James and Bostick & Sullivan. Each curve set is specific to a process. We printed on Pictorico film using an Epson 2880.

I've since retired and just managed to make the purchase of a large UV lightbox and am just about to go full swing back into Alternative processes, though probably going to work mostly in Pt/Pd and Ziatypes.

For Asher, the title should read Nina Vallad: sunflower
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  #8  
Old February 20th, 2013, 10:21 PM
Terry Lee Terry Lee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Calohan View Post
She used an Ammonium Citrate developer followed by a light rinse in distilled water. This is followed by three trays of sodium thiosulphate fixing baths and a 25 minute wash. She chose not to tone this particular image but is going to try some different toning solutions developed by Tim Rudman soon.

This was exposed for one minute in light shade, two and a half minutes in full sun. Even allowing for a 10% density increase on drydown, I wonder if she didn't underexpose by another 15 to 30 seconds.
Love it when newbies first experience the plat/palad world! Old school at its best! Love that instant development....

Curious on the fix bath I've never tried that, i simply used edta clearing and good washing...what contrast agent formula are you guys using?

Since you are using enlarged negs try a small step tablet...will help with the exposure and contrast...took two trys and BAM nailed the curve and exposure...then you use the same settings and perfect negs and prints every time!. I use piezo inks on my 2880.....SOOO easy to do!

I also built my own frame and light box to handle my 12x20 negs....easy to do took a weekend and i had them both done!
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Old February 21st, 2013, 05:19 AM
Chris Calohan Chris Calohan is offline
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I wrote that down wrong, it should have said edta. We did so much Salt printing, Sodium Thio became the catchall name.

She used (the class used) the three chem set from Bostick & Sullivan, so I am sure the #2 Ferric Oxalate is the contrast agent. I am pretty sure we used potassium dichromate with salt. I have a book of tray set-ups and used that when readying the class for a process. Later, when I had more than four or five using a specific process, it got a little hairy to prevent cross contamination.

I had to use pretty much standardized drop formulas for the kids or things would tend to get out of hand and given the cost of a 25ml kit, it could get real expensive quickly.

I've been using Piezo inks for a long time in my 2880. I have two, one dedicated only to B&W, one to color.

Do you have the instructions on how you made your 12 x20 box?

I bought a herd of B&S frames at one time but when the class got so popular, I resorted to foam board, single pane glass beveled and bull clips. A little cheesy, but when there is no money for anything else..hey...
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  #10  
Old February 21st, 2013, 01:55 PM
Terry Lee Terry Lee is offline
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Default UV Box

Cool! Yes it does get expensive quick!

I'll see if I can draw up my notes on my UV box, it ended up being big and heavy, but that is all good.

Let me see if I can snap some photos that will help....
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