Water drop

Still working on this, wish I had a faster sync speed for my flash. 1/200th sec seems a little slow, but if I crank it up to 1/250th sec I get that black annoying line from the mirror.
So please give it to me.

Lens: 50.0 mm
Focal Length: 50.0mm
Aperture: f/14.0
Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)
ISO equiv: 200

Cody White said:

Still working on this, wish I had a faster sync speed for my flash. 1/200th sec seems a little slow, but if I crank it up to 1/250th sec I get that black annoying line from the mirror.

Click to expand...

Hi Cody,

It's not so much the flash sync speed, but the flash duration you need to exploit.

So, in order to get a short flash exposure, you should place the (off-camera) flash close to the subject. At close proximity the flash output will be electronically shut off faster, which will reduce the effective exposure time to flash (even if the shutter curtains are still open).

For that to work, you must also make sure that the ambient light level is low enough no not cause a significant exposure at the chosen aperture and shutterspeed (1/200s). The darker the environment is, the wider you can open your aperture without causing enough of an ambient light exposure that could show motion blur.

Cheers,
Bart

Hi, Cody,

Cody White said:

Still working on this, wish I had a faster sync speed for my flash. 1/200th sec seems a little slow, but if I crank it up to 1/250th sec I get that black annoying line from the mirror.

Click to expand...

It's from the focal plane shutter. At higher shutter speed settings, it does not open across the entire frame at the same time (think of an open slit, not as high as the frame, moving vertically across the frame).

As Bart pointed out, in this situation you need to rely on the shortness of the flash burst to stop the motion, not a fast shutter speed. The flash burst will be shortest when a small amount of output from the flash is needed, as when the flash is close to the subject, especially with a higher ISO setting.

Best regards,

Doug

Here's two examples to show what has been previously said. Not the best examples, but they work. Both these examples have shutterspeeds 1/30 or longer.


I'm not sure what the flash output % represents in terms of the flash power setting used though. I'll guess 1/64 and 1/32 though.

Doug Kerr said:

Hi, Cody,


It's from the focal plane shutter. At higher shutter speed settings, it does not open across the entire frame at the same time (think of an open slit, not as high as the frame, moving vertically across the frame).

As Bart pointed out, in this situation you need to rely on the shortness of the flash burst to stop the motion, not a fast shutter speed. The flash burst will be shortest when a small amount of output from the flash is needed, as when the flash is close to the subject, especially with a higher ISO setting.

Best regards,

Doug

Click to expand...

Hi Doug,

On my Canon the whole mirror opens, it's not a split mirror. I even tried the mirror lock up option, and still got the black line.

Hi Bart,

I will try to lower my ambient light.

hi Jake.

thanks

Hi, Cody,

Cody White said:

On my Canon the whole mirror opens, it's not a split mirror. I even tried the mirror lock up option, and still got the black line.

Click to expand...

In English, we have separate words for "shutter" and "mirror".

Please read what I wrote. Or not, if you don't care to understand what is happening. It is up to you.

Best regards,

Doug

Doug,

I apologize.

I was always under the impression that the mirror was shutter so I had to take a closer look, and took a picture with out the lens on, that's when I noticed it. Thank you.

if I didn't care I wouldn't be posting here.

Water drop #375

Is this one any better?

Cody White said:

Is this one any better?

Click to expand...

Hi Cody,

Yes, motion blur is covered.

You can now concentrate on various shooting angles, and backgrounds, and colored flash, etc. Try shooting a thin layer of milk on a glass/acrylic plate with a drop falling on that ...

Cheers,
Bart

thanks Bart.