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Head Shot question

I will be doing head shots for the 20 top execs in my wife's company soon. They will be used on their website as well is in print. I will shoot half of them in Houston then go to Dallas for the other half. I have been searching around here and on various other sites, including those of professionals specializing in this type of photography, and I have a question concerning the framing of the shots. Some show the entire head and some seem to always crop off a bit of the head at the top. I like both but wonder which would be more appropriate for what I am trying to do. Is this cropping technique just a fad or a style that is more useful in Hollywood and would the full head shot, uncropped, be better suited for executives in a company brochure? This is probably a stupid question but I figured if I was to get the answer I would have to ask. Thank you.
James Newman
 
This is probably partly artistic style (detail shots versus showing the whole head) and possibly partly to cover baldness. Did you note any trend to have more male heads cut off than female?

In the end, it is probably better to go with your artistic vision than to worry about what others do. Do your best instead.

some thoughts,

Sean
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
In the end, it is probably better to go with your artistic vision than to worry about what others do. Do your best instead.

I fully agree with Sean's statement!

If ever you hesitate, why don't you do shoot both framing… within your own style, so you can make your choice later or let your client choose…
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Hi James,

At the risk of being regarded as a heathen, I'd suggest you shoot wide as you can always crop. Have people by a window in the morning or late afternoon and so get a gentle light.

Haqve light coming to 3/3 of the face and shoot head and shoulders and then step back and shoot more. As you shoot vary your height and angle so that you will be able to select the best for each person. Start just a little below and then work form that. Practice first with your good wife.

When you have these do some in the outside in the open shade or under a cloudy sky so you do not have harsh shadows.

Buy a WhiBal card from RawWorkflow.com to use as a reference for color correction. Shoot in RAW so your pictures can be adjusted afterwards.

Try to use a wide aperture to keep other distractions out of focus.

Learn to choose a focus point corresponding to an eye so that that is sharp.

Just decide to do this as it's simple and will work! Learn other stuff when you are not under pressure.

Good luck!

Asher
 

Dierk Haasis

pro member
If the portraits to be used on the Web site of the company are considered formal, show the whole head, don't cut something of. Cropping such that the subject seems to leave the frame is a very personal style, it gives the effect of being very close. Very appropriate in non-formal portraits but not at all with formal ones.

While company portraits are usually done to bridge the gap between employee and customer - 'We are the friendly bunch, knowing you, serving you!' - they have to keep some distance. It is the customer who decideds if and when he goes in, comes close, gets personal. The out-of-frame crop will be perceived as obtrusive.
 

Will_Perlis

New member
Don't forget that a "Hollywood" headshot is to give people solid info about the raw material available. You're not really shooting for that reason. You want those execs to be flattered. I'd crop or not crop depending on the individual picture.
 
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I really love this forum and everyone in it. Thank you so much for your responses, advice, and wisdom. I will probably try cropping some just for my own stuff but after speaking with their business development person who is really running this show, we have decided the full frame, no crop version is the way to go. I will also be using the same lighting and background setup for them all...again at their request. It may be a bit boring but they are the ones paying.

I do have the WhiBal Asher and wouldn't think of trying this without it. I'm pretty set with everything I need for the portraits. It is the interior shots of the facilities and equipment that has me a little anxious. I have shot this location before but it's really huge and the lighting is not the most conducive to good photography. It will be a great challenge I'm sure. The dates have been set and I start at the Houston facility next Saturday. My wife and I will then be going on a vacation in North Carolina and I will shoot the Dallas location and the portraits after we return. Thanks again to everyone for the responses. I will hopefully have something to share with you soon so I can learn more on how to do better the next time.
James
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Hi James,

Good luck with your project. Make a list for yourself so you everything will go fine.

Are there no windows? Go out of your way to find a window. The light is the key to your picture. Do you have flash? Do you have a white reflector. Get one. That allows you to send back more light to open up the face.

Start practicing with anyone you can get to stand by a window. It's really easy. If it's a guy, say they look distinguished and a lady of course, you know what to say, for sure.

You wife is an easy subject, but get different people.

Asher
 
I have two Nikon SB-800's, one SB-600, two small SB-R200's and they are all triggered by my SU-800 Commander. I have three 43" umbrellas, two white and one soft silver, light stands, background stand and background paper. I also just ordered a Westcott 50x50 softbox that should work extremely well for this on one of my SB-800's. I was planning on the softbox as key, an SB-800 or SB-600 and umbrella for fill, perhaps one of my small lights for a hair light and the other small light (maybe with a snoot?) on the background.

I will be experimenting and practicing hard with my wife as my model up until the time of the shoot so hopefully by then I will have some idea of what works best for me. Perhaps I will enlist some others as you suggest just to get some practice with different models. That is a very good idea. Maybe we will have photo day at my work.

I am still not decided yet as to what lens I will use for the portraits. Can anyone make suggestions? I have the following to choose from...
50mm f/1.8
105mm f/2.8
24-70mm f/2.8
70-200mm f/2.8 (my personal favorite)
Thanks again for the great input and advice. It's going to be a lot of fun and a very good and educational experience for me.
James
 

Kathy Rappaport

pro member
When I first started wiht portraits I met with a long time headshot guy. Gray background, F4 @125 40mm was his stock setting. My personal favorite lens is the 24-70 2.8 Canon but also the 50 1.2L is usually close by on my 5d. I also favor having my subjects eye level with the lens or slightly looking up. It's more flattering to women or those over 40 or with people who can lose a few pounds. You can also pose them with their body not squarely facing the camera but then turning their head to squarely face camera. Slight head tilt is also nice.
 

Shane Carter

New member
Yes, no one right answer...full head is more formal and to my eye, a little boring because it is so common. For corp work, it may be the most anticipated pose tho.

57490J4O8676.jpg


More interesting and less formal:

57490J4O8731.jpg


A twist, all of the head but the back with neg space...it just depends on what the end product is going to be:

57490M2N3716.jpg


I like the idea of shooting with several kinds of frames so you can choose later. Enjoy trying different things. :)
 
Thanks Shane. This is exactly what I was referring to and you exhibit it very nicely in your portraits. Now I am convinced I will do some of each. Whether they select them or not will be up to them but at least I will have more selections to add to my portfolio.
 
I received my softbox yesterday and had to give it a try. I got a Westcott Apollo JS which is a 50" with recessed front so I wasn't so sure my Nikon SB-800 would have enough ooomph to use with it. I was pleasantly surprised to find that it works wonderfully. At least I think so. I had the box 45 degrees on the left and high (perhaps too high) and I used my SB-600 in a white umbrella for some fill on the right.

This is just practice to try and find the best settings and such for when I do the headshots that started this whole thread. My wife was a good sport although none too pleased about having to model again. My portrait is as goofy as ever. Bad poses, bad hair, needing a shave, etc., all that aside, what do you see being needed in the lighting setup? Some others I showed all agree that I needed to boost the fill up a bit. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated once again. I am extremely new at this type of photography but find it fascinating and want to learn and improve my lighting skills as much as possible. Thank you.
James Newman

0327_softbox_2006.jpg


0327_softbox_1994.jpg
 
Bad poses, bad hair, needing a shave, etc., all that aside, what do you see being needed in the lighting setup? Some others I showed all agree that I needed to boost the fill up a bit.

Hi James,

I think that if you reduce the background brightness a little, you'll find the fill to be adequate. You could either shade some of the main light falling on the background, or increase distance.

To train your sense for lighting, it usually helps to first practice with 1 light, positioned at various angles (keeping a constant height) from behind to the front and to the back again on the other side, at a constant distance to the subject. The constant distance will avoid brighness differences, and relatively larger lightsources produce softer shadows. That will show you how the light starts lighting/shading the nose/cheek/chin/forehead/eye(socket)s. You also can use some of those positions, and vary the height. Once you get that feeling for what happens to the human features, you can tone down the contrast by adding fill light. Try the effects of the fill light when it comes from the camera position (which retains the effect of the main light), or from another angle (which will create new shadows by itself). You'll find that there are common main/fill ratios that work in most cases.

I usually advise others to learn a classical setup, which projects the shadow of the nose tip to the corner of the mouth, and then deviate if it improves the facial features. It is usually more flattering to light from the side of the face that's turned away from the camera (to avoid the ' mumps' look). Frontal fill light (slightly above the camera) is a good starting position.

Next will be the positioning of the model's face (or conceptually the camera angle) and the pose, which is a completely different, although related, exercise.

Bart
 

Kathy Rappaport

pro member
Make sure you also are shooting stopped down enough to get both eyes crisply in focus. Usually at 4.0 - 8.0 in studio and for corporate make sure the subject is looking directly at the camera.
 
Thank you Bart. That is exactly what I plan to do starting this weekend. I will do some serious studies as you suggest, keeping notes and examples of exactly what the light is doing at each setting and position. I will begin using only the softbox and not even worry about fill until I am comfortable with what the main light is actually doing for me. I am sure I should have done this sort of work before posting anything.
Thank you too Kathy. I believe I will be using manual focus in these attempts. I always have problems with my auto focus getting sharp on the eyes. Is this normal? Do most people manually focus when shooting portraits? Thanks again to you both.
James Newman
 
I will begin using only the softbox and not even worry about fill until I am comfortable with what the main light is actually doing for me.

Yes, that's the best way to having it become second nature. The main light determines the mood. Also remember that you initially keep the distance to the subject constant. Afterall, a softbox at a larger distance will be come more directional (depending on ambient reflections), and at a shorter distance it becomes even more diffuse. It's also easier to keep the exposure level fixed this way, although you'll notice that in a more backlit situation the exposure seems to increase due to increased specular reflection of the skin. It's exactly those things you'll want to understand and get under control.

I am sure I should have done this sort of work before posting anything.

It'll still be interesting to see the progress you can make by controlling the variables. You now have something to compare with.

Have fun.

Bart
 
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