That bee really dug into that flower pretty deep. Wonderful images of spring. The last one is divine!
The middle one is new to me entirely.
Is it hairy plum?\
Thanks Asher. The middle one is a member of the Mint Family. To quote:
Of the weedy mints
, self-heal, Prunella vulgaris (pl. 23), is almost ubiquitous. This is a low perennial that creeps by underground stems, and its leafy, upright shoots are generally not more than 15 cm tall. As in other mints, the stems are squarish and the leaves are opposite. The flowers, crowded into a short inflorescence, are purplish blue (rarely pink or white) and a little more than 1 cm long. The lower lip of the corolla is shorter than the upper one and is divided into three lobes, the middle one being larger and conspicuously fringed.
Plants and Animals of the Pacific Northwest - An illustrated Guide to the Natural History of Western Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia by Eugene N. Kozloff - University of Washington Press, QH104.4.N6K69 (LCN), 574.9'975 (Dewey) - page 189.
I have more shots about if you are interested, but they are more reasonably composed data points showing flower details for an amateur naturalist than anything highly refined. i.e., I have yet to find a composition I truly feel in my soul for this species and so I keep looking.
Thanks guys. Very helpful comments. There are times I wish the 24-105 were f/2.8 both to help smooth the bokeh and for the extra light, but not when I'm carrying it around. On a 20D you're talking a fair bit of weight already.
The difference between f/2.8 and f/4 at those focal lengths is minor. Just put on an f/2.8 or faster lens and try out DoF preview and you will see it is not enough to matter for most situations. With macro style subjects smooth boke is most easily achieved through careful subject selection and composition. With true macros subjects one can get all kinds of smooth creamy boke at f/10 or smaller apertures.
I will have to be more careful about the background. It's tough when you're shooting a 15' tall tree and don't really want to drag out a ladder just for a better view, which then poses tripod problems.
Screw the tripod. Yes I absolutely agree they can make for sharper images. But a sharp shot with a lackluster composition version a slightly soft shot that feels good is an easy choice for me (I want the viewer to feel it, not just see some random poorly composed details).
Albeit, when I take a tripod out for shooting it is because I have a flash with a lighting modifier mounted on the tripod (much more stable in wind than light stands) so that I can handlhold at sync speeds and contort my body in to get the composition I want (or try) in rapidly changing situations.
Please note I am not saying do not use a tripod, but as a
be all and and all for getting a shot it sucks. I am not that patient. I like to stalk/hunt my insect subjects. I think hunters who sit in blinds up in trees and shoot deer who wander under them are lazy and failing to learn about their subjects. Same thing with photographers. Unless you have a truly dreamy composition composed in you mind and need a subject to complete I think lying in wait is boring as all heck.
For flowers there is little point in a tripod as they tend to shift in the breeze and it is rarely wind free here. The only reason I shoot flowers alone is for compositional practice and data points that may end up in a database someday (the amateur naturalist wanting to tie in species availability data with climate databases to predict when local species are likely about on a computer). I say compositional practice a wild flowers tend to be random so getting a clean composition is at times hard.
Anyway, on the the rest of the pics. Sean's last is really quite nice. The green of the new leaf really adds a lot.
Thanks. That last one was shot using a small 12x18 inch (or close to it) soft box and a boom arm on a tripod very close to these eye level blossoms. I focused, recomposed, and then used DoF preview to select both the compromise between DoF on the subject and smooth boke on the OoF background. So the entire OoF background was intentional and composed to highlight and make the in focus elements stand out. Some burning in of the background might help, but I rarely bother and move on to the next shot. But I also have RAW files from last Summer I have yet to look at while chasing insects that need review (and lots of deleting except for the ocassional data point image.
Per Derek's comments, a little burning of the background might help in #1. I wanted to keep the leaf and the angle of the branch, so cropping wasn't really an option but a little PS magic is in order. Love the translucent look of the bee.
I would suggest tweaking the image with curves to gently enhance contrast in the subject while reducing contrast in the boke. Careful selection of image tonality can do a lot without making any localized changes. Or just clone/heal them away (this can be hard if you want it flawless). Another option is to locally blur the image and then introduce noise to keep textures even across the image for strong boke removal.
Or better yet, if you like it keep it and ignore my photographers hyper-picky review of your image <smile>.
some thoughts,
Sean