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It's 18% time again

Doug Kerr

Well-known member
A respected colleague has suggested elsewhere that I start a thread for a rant on gray cards. Sorry, rant is not my milieu.

But maybe it is time to give my semi-annual lecture on "the 18% matter".

We often hear that "[reflected light] exposure meters (or automatic exposure systems) are expected to be calibrated to 18% gray". Is that true?

Well, that statement doesn't really describe any identifiable technical situation, so it can't be either true or not.

But here's a situation that the speakers of this phrase might mean to refer to. Excuse me for stating it in a rather elaborate way; I need to be precise here, and the matter is a little complicated.

If we have a camera:

a. Whose automatic exposure system is "calibrated" as prescribed by the applicable ISO standard

and

b. Whose ISO sensitivity ratings are made in accordance with the applicable ISO standard

then, assuming the use of an "averaging" type of metering by the automatic exposure system:

If we have a scene whose average reflectance (over the field of view of the exposure metering sensor) is 18%, the camera exposure will be set so that a scene region with 100% reflectance will receive a photometric exposure on the sensor 1/2 stop below saturation.

[Photometric exposure is the property to which the sensor responds. For example, it doubles if we double the luminance of the scene region being considered, double the exposure time, or increase the aperture by one stop.]

A corollary is this:

If we use incident light metering by having a reflective light exposure meter (or the camera's automatic exposure control system) observe a gray card in the scene, then (for a camera meeting specifications a and b above) if that card has a reflectance of 18%, a scene object with a reflectance of 100% will receive a photometric exposure on the sensor 1/2 stop below saturation.

If we prefer a "no headroom" exposure strategy (where a 100% reflectance object will be given the saturation photometric exposure), then we will need to "bump" the exposure by 1/2 stop from that suggested by the meter (or use an exposure compensation of +0.5 Ev in the case of an automatic exposure control system).

Let me speak for a moment about "medium gray".

Sometimes a neutral body with a reflectance of 18% is referred to as "medium gray". That's pretty arbitrary, but is often rationalized by the fact that the L*a*b color coordinate system (in its original use, to describe "reflective" color) assigns an L* value of very nearly 50% to a color with reflectance 18%. Fair enough.

Some people than carry this the the realm of the digital representation of an image, and say that the digital representation of a gray color that corresponds to a photometric exposure 18% of that which would produce the highest possible digital representation should be considered "medium gray" (again, L*=50% if we consider the image in the L*a*b* coordinate system).

As a further cause of confusion here note that in a digital graphic arts context, such a color is called "82% gray" (0% gray there meaning not gray at all, that is, "white").

Best regards,

Doug
 

fahim mohammed

Well-known member
Doug. what you say is a common symptom. this is attributed, inconclusively, to darkroom and specifically
to wet printing influences.

Chemicals have been known to contribute to a rapidly deteriorating condition, when inhaled for extended
periods of time.

There is no known cure currently. But the condition can and has been managed successfully in inhabitants of advanced societies by letting in more light into their lives. But contraindications have been severe when crossing the dark to light thresholds abruptly.

If I have misunderstood you question, I apologize and promise to switch to 3D matrix, AWB and 'P' mode.

Hope this has been helpful.
 

Doug Kerr

Well-known member
Hi, Fahim,

Doug. what you say is a common symptom. this is attributed, inconclusively, to darkroom and specifically
to wet printing influences. . . .
I think that, as always, your analysis of the situation is apt and insightful. I appreciate your adding to the literature of this field.

Best regards,

Doug
 

james sperry

New member
Doug. what you say is a common symptom. this is attributed, inconclusively, to darkroom and specifically
to wet printing influences.

Chemicals have been known to contribute to a rapidly deteriorating condition, when inhaled for extended
periods of time.

There is no known cure currently. But the condition can and has been managed successfully in inhabitants of advanced societies by letting in more light into their lives. But contraindications have been severe when crossing the dark to light thresholds abruptly.

If I have misunderstood you question, I apologize and promise to switch to 3D matrix, AWB and 'P' mode.

Hope this has been helpful.

okay, either i'm missreading this or there are alot of things going on in this forum that i'm not catching on to.
 
Last edited:

fahim mohammed

Well-known member
James, Doug is very much correct. Seriously though, we have to thank Doug for bringing this information to our attention. Explanations of such subjects are not easy to post, but Doug has managed to
present it in a very coherent way.

My thanks to him as usual.

Can assure you that I have not taken leave of my senses, though others
might find this to be unjustifiable. Time for my meds.

Best.
 

james sperry

New member
i try to understand technical posts. but, realisticly, they are WAY past my current understanding of such topics. i use a grey card for custom w/b, and admitidly, i don't understand how the process works, i do understand the purpose of it and see the benifit from it.

my question was geared more towards seeing if i'm understanding the accepted humor within this forum. and my apologies if it is steering away from the subject.

i do have a question about grey cards. currently i'm using a 'pop-out' grey card that was in a magazine (digital camera, i believe). it's just a piece of cardboard with grey on one side and various graphs and images on the other to check lenses for clarity. anyways, back to my question(s). at what level of photography would a professional grey card be necessary and at my current level would i see a noticeable difference with an 8mp camera from one grey card to the next?

lol ... i guess i should tell you that i have minimal computer resources to work with raw format. right now i'm mostly using jpeg images. don't know if that is important to the question or not. i am currently looking into the hdr programs.
 

fahim mohammed

Well-known member
James, imho the megapixel race is overblown. a 8mp camera can give you excellent 8x10s. There are
grey cards the size of a cc and I believe they cost a couple of bucks. handy tools. While raw is the preferred way, that in no way undermines the excellent job one can do with jpegs. In a constant
light environ just place the grey card in the first pic and shoot away. later in pp all u have to do is
click the grey stooper on the grey card in the pic and u should get a pretty good color balance.

You do not need to overspend. Only when you realise that you are hitting the limits of your
comp hp should you invest more. same goes for the camera. i still use my nikon d70s. it is 6mp and
is enough for most of my amateur needs.

Just mho.

Regards.
 

james sperry

New member
i wouldn't neccessarily say "overblown". i can see a difference in pictures from my pictures and the newer super mp cameras. or it could be the software i use (elements ). i'm sure they have their places, one of them is just not in my hands ... lol ...

thanks for your reply. i have always been curious about the subject just never been at the right place, at the right time, to ask the question.
 

Doug Kerr

Well-known member
Hi, James,

The use of a gray card for exposure control is principally when we world benefit from what is really an "incident light" exposure measurement.

That type of measurement makes the exposure measurement independent of the average or local reflectance of the scene. Rather, it allows us to reliably "plant" the different scene objects on the "tonal scale of the image such that, for example, a "100% white" object area in the scene will always get very near the greatest exposure possible, and will naturally look "full white" in a viewed image.

To do this, we place a gray card of known reflectance in the scene and take an exposure measurement on it (with an external "reflected light" meter or with the camera's internal exposure control metering system, being sure that the system only "regards" the card. (We can move close to the card to do this if we wish.)

If the card has a reflectance of 18% (as many cards intended for exposure measurement do), then we can perhaps shoot at exactly the exposure the metering system (having regarded the card) selects for us, or we may wish to "bump" the exposure upwards by about 1/2 stop (such as by setting an exposure compensation of +0.5 Ev in the camera).

If the gray card does not have that reflectance, but we know what its reflectance is, we can do some further mathematical work to decide how the camera should vary from the exposure the automatic exposure system would normally set, based on regarding the card. We can talk about that later if it comes into importance to you.

This technique can reliably give a very appropriate exposure, even for scenes with extreme average reflectances.

Best regards,

Doug
 
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