Tom Owen Meinen
New member
I've long wanted the Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8. However, the only thing I don't like is that it's not image stabilized. Anyone know if they're planning on coming out with an IS version?
I've long wanted the Canon EF 24-70 f/2.8. However, the only thing I don't like is that it's not image stabilized. Anyone know if they're planning on coming out with an IS version?
F/4 won't work for me because I need very fast lenses for what I shoot. I actually wish there were zoom lenses that could do F/1.8.
I have been told that optical stabilization of fast wide angle lenses is a problem, because the moving group would be very large. That would explain why there isn't any stabilized 24-70 f/2.8 on the market, even if they would sell like hot cakes.
Your only option is to get a stabilized camera (Sony or Pentax).
I have been told that optical stabilization of fast wide angle lenses is a problem, because the moving group would be very large. That would explain why there isn't any stabilized 24-70 f/2.8 on the market, even if they would sell like hot cakes.
What's the experience with them?
I have an EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS and it works just fine. The reason why it doesn't sell like hot cakes is because is too damn expensive for what it is.
Then truth be told, get a few primes. If one is doing low light work, having a 35 1.4 in your bag and a 50 1.4 on the camera will be far better than the 24-70 IS or not.
That and the 70-200 2.8 is about all one needs for most non-bird, non architecture work.
Especially if you go for a heavy camera like a 1D series, it will be stable enough for handheld at 1/f stop. Where things go crazy is in the longer distances and great pixel packing.
Asher
If all the lenses you tried hunt too much in low light, it's probably not the lens which is at fault, but the camera...
Edit: another idea... I don't really remember how Canon does it, but if you can activate some kind of AF illuminator on your camera (red light which projects a set of lines on the subject), that will make more difference than any other change. If your camera does not have the light built-in, there is one on the Canon flashes. You should then read the manual to find out how to activate the light without activating the flash.
Obviously, the red light is not discrete, but since you appear to photograph concerts, that should not be a problem.
What's the experience with them?
Asher