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Need advice on Scanner

Greetings,

The objective: To scan artworks such as watercolor or oil paintings in a quality that allows later up rezing and print reproduction on hahnemuehle paper.

Budget: In the region of 1000-2000 Euro depending on quality, ease of use.

System: Ideally under Leopard.

Your advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
 

Ray West

New member
Hi Georg,

Getting into the forgery business, are we ;-)

I guess your camera and a copy stand is not good enough, even if you stitch the images?

Best wishes,

Ray
 
I work together with a local artist who is a friend Ray. We plan to put her work, mainly watercolors and oil paintings onto the computer and print them on a variety of medias.

Our business intention is to colaborate with furniture houses and create a little revenue stream with what I would call art deco.
 
I am most sceptical on the oilpaintings and already said to her that this won't work, but I see no problem on the watercolors.

So what's your thought?
 

Ray West

New member
Hi George,

I have no idea what Nicolas means, but I have already suggested a copy stand and your camera, stitching if required to get higher resolution. A stand can easily be knocked up, and you can correct for white balance, if you are using an artificial light source.

Best wishes,

Ray
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Sorry if I've not been understood…
just because I know that Georg is dreaming of a …Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
still teasing!

OTHO it happened to me to make some "not that bad" reproduction with & 1Ds2… needs to be well lit, but it works fine!
 

Asher Kelman

OPF Owner/Editor-in-Chief
Hi Georg,

Ask Leonardo.

He does photography of art for living.

Two simple lights, polarizing filters, camera.

Either as Ray suggests, or 4x5 film, 8x10 film or Digital back.

Leonardo took a huge leap into the unknown and plonked down his credit card on the store counter bit his lip and bought a used P25 or P20 and a used Mamiya AF camera. By some miracle, money appeared in his bank account to match the minimum payments! He has never looked back, but keeps moving, one step ahead of the law!

Asher
 
Sorry if I've not been understood…
just because I know that Georg is dreaming of a …Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
still teasing!

WHACK
horse.gif


Hehehe!

So, seriously, why do you guys think a good scanner is not the way to go?

@Ray, what is a copy stand?

P.S.
No animal was harmed in the production of this post.
 

nicolas claris

OPF Co-founder/Administrator
Hi Georg
I can see that beer's vapors are slowly vanishing away… :—)

More seroiusly, a "cheap" scanner is A4 only… you will have to deal with stiching scanned files… you better use those extra 2 thousands into better photographic equipment (lens/sensor?) which you'll be able to use for other works (photography for example!).

Just my 2 cents (of Euro)
 

Nill Toulme

New member
With a scanner you're limited as to the size of the original, of course, but more importantly I wouldn't think you'd want to put original art, or certainly not oils at least, face down on the scanner bed. Plus, again especially with oils, lighting is very important and often difficult to avoid specular reflections and highlights off the piece. With a scanner you have no control, while with a camera you have more or less complete control.

Nill
~~
www.toulme.net
 
Thank you all!

I think I'll get myself a prime lense 50mm f2.0, knowing this Zuiko Digital to be tack sharp from edge to edge.

Any tips on how to photograph the artwork?

Lights? Setup?
 

Ray West

New member
Hi George,

A 'copy stand' is just one of the devices you can use for copying. Many different variations. One I remember, was something like a photographic enlarger, a bed, with column and bracket (adjustable) with a camera mount (instead of enlarger head), so the camera film plane was // to the bed. It had lamps placed at each corner, above the bed. Once set up, you simply put the papers on the bad and fired the button. Even if you have a 'black and decker' you can make something similar.

A cheap tripod, with the camera hung underneath, with some lamps clamped to the legs? If you white balance, ordinary tungsten lamps will do, or daylight fluorescent tubes - (think garden centre or pet shop), or LED down lighters. Of course you can google around, and buy something off the shelf, but by the time it arrives, you could have made your own.

Or, prop the picture on a chair, and use your camera as normal. You do not need flash, you do not need bright lights, you do not need reflections, generally. With some post processing, you can get some very good results.

A flat bed scanner does not work for non flat surfaces - e.g. oil painting, if done with a knife, say. It has shadows, which vary in direction as the scan head/lamp moves. I have often scanned printed circuit boards, to show component layouts, it is useful, but not an accurate reproduction (Something like Google - earth, but on a smaller scale)

Best wishes,

Ray
 
Any tips on how to photograph the artwork?

Lights? Setup?

Hi Georg,

It also depends a little on the size of the artwork. Smaller works can be put on the floor and photographed from above with a tripod with a horizontal extension arm (to allow and avoid shadows from the legs). Squaring things is easy that way, just put a mirror on the floor and center the lens reflection in your viewfinder, then replace by artwork and refocus. A painter's easel works fine, also for larger work, just square things accurately without casting shadows or adding reflections from the supports (a black easel would be best).

Ideally one would use polarized light and a (crossed with the light filters) polarization filter on the camera, color balance on something neutral gray/grey or white, and expose without clipping the highlights. I prefer large light sources because they provide smoother surfaces, more even lighting, and more gradual light fall-off, but 4 identical narrower lights placed at the corners from some distance also works.

When you don't use polarized light, you must take care of specular reflections from uneven oil-paint in postprocessing, which may be difficult. One approach could be by taking 1 correctly exposed, and one underexposed image and use image exposure fusion (Enfuse/TuFuse) to recover color in the highlights.

You'll want to keep the lighting angle at 45 degrees or less from the artwork surface if you want to avoid bright edges. The easy rule of thumb is to place the lights at least as far to the side of the camera as the artwork is wide. A bit farther to the sides is better IMHO.

Bart
 
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