News: Breaking Trail

[David J. Eves]

Caribou meat is delicous.. slurp.. there is virtally no fat on the meat. It tastes much like prime beef, it all depends on how you cook it !! We have lots in our freezer,

I have learned so much .. from this culture, so much so, I never want to leave it.
It is not all of what it could be, there is always someone, to twist the knife in your back, Although I live in an eskimo community full of the greatest people, there is one person in this town, that is soon to be kicked out of this village, for the manner in which he insults the natives on the internet.
This is a white man, who is a self proclaimed expert of the arctic who hasn't even been here 10 years. he is the mistake sheriff if any one posts any infomation about barrow or whaling. He makes up bold face lies and makes vain attempts to change the truth by lying. This is one of the main reasons I moved up here, to get away from white people that have this GOD almighty self righteous attitude.

Moving on to prove a point about photography, Creating professional images DOES NOT REQUIRE: a top of the line brand name camera.

BEHOLD.. .. the tiny toy camera(s), used to create these images !! My point is well proven beyond dispute, you do not need to spend huge amounts of money with a myrid of X-tra gadgets to produce professonal quality images.

Believe it or not- this toy is capable of producing a movie of one hour in duration !! @ 320 X 240 - Lol.. wait... till the camps are set up, and we sit around for story time. I will do my best to provide you hours of side splitting laughter. The humor level is very 'high' out here on the ice, it is just themost exciting time of the entire year ! These next 8 weeks or so.. what ever it turns out to be, shall be full of awesome images depicting the Inupiaq way of life never before seen up close and this personal !!

I got lots more images to post.. I am so glad you all enjoy the images for what they are and I will do my best to keep 'text' to an absolute minimum!
Believe it or not, this camera has photoshop built into it !! Most of the filters are present to enhance images, it can even put a smile on someone's face that refuses to smile !!!

 

[David J. Eves]

Monday, April 20th. We are waiting for a phone call from our captains, (when they get off work). Beluga whales are beng harvested in Point Hope today. We should be setting up camp out on the ice tonight. photos will be forthcoming shortly - day by day- out on the ocean ice pack.

We have a huge hole to fill out on the ocean ice. It is getting thin in some places.

Some of the crew members are not showing up for work, (chuckle) two crews - 16 people - ten are missing !!

These images should illustrate plainly why you could never get a bob cat out here.

There, on the far left, is the captain, everyone is equal out here, everyone does the same work. There are 'NO LEVELS'. Everyone is treated the same (with respect). Everyone works, no matter who you are.

 

[David J. Eves]

Huge ice chunks are broken up, to fill this hole.

Getting ready to head back out..far out, many miles!
Can you believe this amount of difficult hard work, with no pay, for weeks on end,.. .. 'just to eat' !!

Here is a photograph is not too clear, it is very foggy outside. Notice, the person wearing shortcuts when it is Zero F - temp !!

 

[David J. Eves]

More images from breaking trail, the folder name BT-x is the day number of when this work was done. So far, we have 15 days of images of breaking trail !! Only a few have been posted so far.. continuing onward, through the ice

yawn ! long day ! adiga (good) Tavra - that's all!

 

[David J. Eves]

Some of the crew members on this crew

This is long hard days of nothing but work, with no pay, we need your help, each crew, cuts its own trail - 8 crew members plus the captain !!
and.. .. the boyer !!!

Steam, from open water is visible miles away. Look at the bottom of the clouds!

Onward .. .. through the ice !!

 

[David J. Eves]

Temperatures, what do we experience out on the ocean ice. These temps just might surprise you !
20 below zero with 30 mph winds = 53 degrees below zero
40 below zero with 30 mph winds = 80 below zero !!
When you are surrounded by ice on all sides for many miles, these temps out here can get quite uncomfortable. The slightest bit of wind, and you notice it, you feel it, you better be dressed correctly !!

 

[David J. Eves]

Find the people.. .. how many can you see / count ? Lets find 'waldo' !

The barren frozen beauty of the arctic is all around us. Spend time out here, then you might understand, if you are warm enough and comfortable. if your not, it is the most miserable harshest place on the planet !! Imagine that.. .. this is where we get our food, for thousands of years, but we have to really work - to gain access !! Constant thanks is given for that which we receive from the creator of all things.

Imagine that .. .. some people pay money to go to the gym - to work out !!

This was day six, it was extremly cold as in 40 below w/ 30 mph winds or stronger. It was a long day, all the captains are very happy with the progress that has been made. We are more than six miles out on day six, but the wind broke off about two miles of the ice, back and forth on the trail, widening it to bring the skin boats and other supplies.
Just look, at the massive amount of ice that has been removed here, talk about hard work, for many hours on end.. .. just to eat - that is the only reward !! These crews, are in top physical shape to stay out here, day after day. This is the easy part, .. .. wait !! watch and learn what really goes on.. .. you would never have believed this, and the amount of work involved unless you have seen it with your own eyes, then you can get a small feel and indication of the massive amount of work that is done. for MILES .. .. .. .. .. !! 'let that sink in for more than ten seconds .. ' !! Everyone is smiling, happy, and no one complains.. well that is much differenet from the people I have worked with in construction.. it is constant complaining from people that are receiving money for doing all their work. what a difference in cultures. This is what keeps me here in the Arctic - People that are content and happy with no complaints, full of thanks and praise all day long.

Everything that man does.. .. .. is for his mouth !! (King Solomon) !!

 

[David J. Eves]

This is work, and it is very cold out !!
the heat you need, is in the tools you are using !!

This was day six, and it is wicked cold, the worst ever !!

Just look at how people are dressed, it is brutal - that wind will cut you up on exposed skin (face)
frostbite is an understatement, the skin bets burned, it turns black and takes 3 months to heal properly.
just like a razor blade was dragged across your skin, that is what that wind is like, it hurts !

Break time - miles and miles to go.. .. .. day after day .. .. .. !

 

[David J. Eves]

The overwhelming quiet - & peace & freedom, the only sound(s) are the wind, the cracking ice, and your 'thoughts' !!
This is the paradise of the north - that very few ever get to experience !!

These giants are crusing past us at perhaps 20 mph or faster !!

 

[Asher Kelman]

David,

The pictures are magnificent. The pictures are magnificent. I'll comment more later.

Asher

 

[David J. Eves]

Here is where we get 80% of our food, from the ocean, seals (4 types) whales 2 types - Oogruk, walrus, fish to numerous to mention, along with ducks, geese, birds of all types, and so much more. We wait, and food is delivered !!

Charles Brower !!

Hey ! take my picture !!

Another day is over, in the land of the midnight sun !!

 

[David J. Eves]

One umiaq is brought into the church, for the traditional Blessing of the boats - prayers for the safety of the crews and individuals involved. This four hour service was packed !! Many people got up to speak, among them was Eugene Brower. Much was said about work !! The need for hard workers to get the job done. Fredrick Brower is seated to the left, you can see part of his seal skin vest. All whaling captains are wearing seal skin vests for this occasion.

Getting ready to go back out on the trail to work, it is very cold today, Khristopher is wearing some very warm polar bear mittens. Keeping your hands warm in sub zero temps with high winds is easy, if you have the right materials !! Fredrick Brower uses 3 pairs of mittens, one on top of the other to keep his hands warm when it is extremely cold !! Layers, lots of loose layers is the secret to keeping warm. (one of the secrets). There are many others, such as the type(s) of food eaten.

Notice the braided yarn harness, just take your mittens off, cross them behind your back, and the harness will keep them ready for when you need to put them back on !!
Today, was an overcast day, much to the relief of our eyes, That sunlight bouncing and reflecting off all the ice, is blinding indeed, it is a much welcome relief to have grey skies for a while.

But the one draw back with overcast skies, is the contrast is so low, it is difficult to see changes in the surface of the ice, until it is too late, so , we proceed slowly, cautiously.
A meeting of the captains - Eugene Brower is speaking to Thomas Brower of which part of the trail to widen.

There is one thing that is very easy to accomplish out here. Notice the can of POP ! Ice cold, never a problem getting your pop cold out here. Just do not forget it because they will freeze in no time at all !!
Everyone works- as a team effort - Even if you are the President of the A.E.W.C. everyone is part of the TEAM - there are no levels out here, everyone is treated in the same manner. Everyone pitches in to get the job finished !!

 

[David J. Eves]

work work work, mile after mile, day after day, no pay !! Just the right to eat, and no one complains !!

Notice the seal skin gloves on Eugene Brower !!

 

[David J. Eves]

Tuesday, we are still n the village, west wind is still blowing. We need that west wind to increase. We need the temps to drop. Alapa Anaui 'Cold & windy.
That ice that on the other side of the lead, has to advance with much force to jam this ice together to make it stronger and thicker. The higher the pressure ridges, the safer and more solid the ice is. The work load increases, but that is not a problem, - happy days full of laughter !!

In the background is Ben Itta's Truck with his logo and name. This captains gear in the foreground is ready to be taken out to the ice when conditions improve. The caribou skins are for sitting, on the sled @ camp. There is one sled in the tent, and one sled @ the lead opening itself.

Instead of caribou skins and or other animals fur, this captain has his sled loaded with blue insulation, very warm for sitting for long periods of time, waiting, the days will soon be filled with excitement and much hunting and harvesting of food for the many familes of this and other communities.
Believe it or not, some of this food is sent to amost every one of the lower 48 states, and even to some countries around the world !!
Naqkupak !!

Checking out equipment and getting everything ready to head on out.

The outboard motor is mounted on the umiaq !

 

[David J. Eves]

Wednesdays news : It is not good, We have West wind, we are still in town, west winds are predicted to last all week long, We need those winds to increase in speed and strength. It needs to get much colder, we need much thicker ice.
Problems have risen out on the ice and Eugene Brower is a bit upset from other crews using his trail, 5 crews were stopped last night and told to get off that trail, (they did not help) Eugene spent a lot of money to have his trail prepared, he has already gone through 3 - 55 gallon drums of fuel.
The captain foots the bill for the entire crew. Fuel, ammunition, food. (and other supplies if necessary).
Two miles out on the trail, Eugene encounters a young white man with his girl friend and some small children on a snow machine on his trail. "What are you doing out here? You are not allowed here, especially so far out alone, Oh ! the young man said.. we are just joyriding. Eugene glared - Polar bears are roaming about out here, and you do not even have any weapons??. GET OFF THIS ICE NOW !! This is not a tourist attraction !!
Each crew is responsible to break their own trail; not to take over someone else's trail. in Point Hope there are 20 whaling captains & crews, I am not sure of the exact number of captains and crews here in Barrow but I will acquire that information asap.

My favorite photo of breaking trail was set up and posed, these two captains are really sitting on the pick handle(s), the picks were carefully arranged so as not to show the picks or any shadows. This is straight out of the camera, no photoshop !!

The most photographed site in Barrow, the jaw bone arches of a huge bowhead whale !
What most people do not know, is that these were erected in 1964, by people from Point Hope !
Ron Oviok told me the story one day, and I was very surprised to hear what he had to say. The people in Barrow wanted to erect these bones, but did not know the proper procedure, a call was made to Point Hope and some people came up to do the job !!

1934 is when these villages drafted up their constitution for village government.

The skull of a bowhead whale, I think there are 4 of these throughout the village.

Word just came over the phone, we are possibly headed out tonight @ 8:00 P.M. to begin whaling !!

 

[David J. Eves]

It is way too hot, the captain said, if this keeps up, we will not go whaling, the ice is very thin at the lead opening as in inches not feet. Cold weather is expected Wednesday, i'm told. time will tell.

Whaling in Barrow is much different than whaling in Point Hope.
In Barrow the women stay home and do the cooking, food is brought out to the crews. In Barrow the tent is at the lead, and it is just for the hunters.
In Point Hope, women break trail also, women are on the ice at all times in the tents - cooking, the hunters sleep outside with no tents.
There are many other differences also - as we move along in the hunt I will point these differences out. Point Hope is the only village that still does everything in the traditional manner.

 

[David J. Eves]

Monday evening @ 7:00 p.m. finally we are transporting the umiaq and other supplies out to the camp site, many miles out on the ocean ice pack, which is rapidly melting !!

The crew - and what they are about to do !! (EUGENE BROWERS CREW)
Transport all of this stuff, out through the trail down to the camp site !!

You have no idea, what it involves and what it costs, to keep a crew, supplied out on the ocean ice pack - living for many weeks !!
empty your kitchen.. pack it up.. your going to need almost everything !!!
and you have.. no running water' to do the dishes for 15 people 4 times a day !!!!!

We have arrived at our camp site, now lets setup the tent !!!

This entire hunt, from breaking trail, setting up camp, the hunt - & inside the umiaq. day by day. is all going to be posted, to let you see first hand, what these people have to do - to eat !! The most incredible amount of backbreaking hard work you have ever imagined !! - and more !!

 

[David J. Eves]

Now we have one more thing to do to finish this job .. .. ..

 

[David J. Eves]

The most important part.. .. we have to delegate someone, to test it !!! (chuckle)

Camp site is working, all finished, some minor things, left to do.

We are gaining, 12 more minutes of light, each day, The famous 'midnight sun' !!

 

[David J. Eves]

DEM - R - DUX

THOUSANDS of ducks pass by all day long, plenty of food to be harvested !!

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The hunters are the cooks !! Here in Barrow, there are no women in the tent - cooking & cleaning, it is just the hunters !!
& a boyer !!

Training starts very young out here on the ice, I guess you could say.. .. this is the lowest level !! (chuckle) !!

 

[David J. Eves]

ducks ducks ducks, all day long, every day for weeks !!!

As you can easily see, we are far from the lead, (which is closed).
Much more work to be done, clearing a trail out to the lead !! More work, lots of work to be done every day - by everyone - no one is excluded from this work !!
Cleaning and loading the shoulder gun !! This is the whaling captain . Fredrick Brower !! "BOMB PROOF" is his new nickname !! (chuckle) believe it or not. this man had a harpoon explode and go right through the palm of his hand ! Last fall, the exploding harpoon went off twice, with the safety on !! No one was hurt !!

the ice on the sled is what is left of our drinking water !!

And .. .. ..The Video!!

And.. .. another VIDEO

When there is no room in the tent (full) then it is time to sleep outside !!
It is almost 5:00 a.m. !!

 

[David J. Eves]

I was surprised to see, that they do not use home made wood stoves out here, when I asked why ? They laughed and said.. it takes too long to break down, when we have to evacuate because of advancing ice. NO fire to put out, no stove pipes to clean, no wood to gather and chop !!

Wow !! I bet the boyer sure likes that !!

3 different crews, in our area, they asked permission to use the trail we made - Eugene said Yes ! but when people (5 crews) try to take it over, some people got very upset !!

A happy hunter displays his first duck of the season !!

Charles is the cook, for tonights meal !!

(chuckle) and.. .. The VIDEO

 

[David J. Eves]

Time to get back to work on the trail !!

Here is one of the markers, that is sighted to determine which way the ice is moving. These are lined up in a row across a great distance, you need binoculars to see the 'line' of markers out here.

It is much to hot out here now, messy, and dangerous, it is very easy to fall through the ice. (fingers crossed).

Jesse fell in once, a few years ago. ( in tghis exact spot) It was below zero, lucky for him he had a [pack pack nearby and changed, came home exhausted and fell asleep

this was the image, that inspired me to name my blog "A BLOG OF ICE"

you can see an umiaq, in the background, waiting for a whale to give itself over to the captain ( it never happend) !!

 

[David J. Eves]

Food for the inupiaq people(s), for over 3,000 years. Who else has a documented history of that length of time ?? wow !!!
Here is a flipper or fluke being brought out to the camp site from one of the whales that was caught last fall. This piece will feed the crew, small portions daily, for the many weeks we have left. but with this heat, I am very skeptical. We need strong East winds that are very cold.
30 below or colder.. ..

The tail is all 'blubber, the fins, flukes, flippers are 100% blubber, the only meat, is on the chest, for a 25 foot whale - (teenager) about a wheel barrow full. Tavra (that's all).

Back to work, on the trail, from camp site to the lead. We do not know where, when it will break open again. We need strong cold winds ( to make the ice thicker).

The ice is nice, and an overcast day is a welcome relief from the heat,
Notice the darkness on the bottom of some of the clouds, that is open water.

The pristene magnificent world of ice, the light - changes things out here, colors, reflecting.

Open water is easy to spot.. .. you got all day / night to look around, or take a walk to go seal hunting !!
After work is finished for the day .. .. work work work.. there is always something for everyone to do.

 

[David J. Eves]

Open water is easy to spot.. .. you got all day / night to look around, or take a walk to go seal hunting !!
After work is finished for the day .. .. work work work.. there is always something for everyone to do.

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[img]http://majikimaje.com/CS-1-800/Sonsun.jpg

 

[David J. Eves]

FOOD DELIVERY - all day every day, it flies in, swims in, walks in, ya just gotta be aware of what is going on around you.. .. in all directions !!

Smile: !!!

The entire focus of this photo essay.. .. The Inupiaq peoples plight to obtain.. .. 'their food' !
To document with photos and text - Their activities out on the ocean ice. Most people have no idea what is involved, brief snapshots of time during the hunt. But to see it all, day by day, weeks of patience living out on that ice ! Working hard, and sometimes in very messy conditions.
The entire lifesyle, revolves around, the Mighty Bowhead Whale.

 

[David J. Eves]

Polar bear tracks are spotted near our trail, we decided to follow them for about 1/2 mile

No sight of the bear yet, but these tracks are very fresh, the snow is melting, quickly, you can see the 'texture'

Looks like this bear found some food, a seals den ??

We never saw the bear, we headed back to camp.

 

[David J. Eves]

Charging up,through the sunlight, you easily become solar powered out here, as long as your outside in that blinding sunlight all day, you feel no effects of being tired, it is very easy to stay alert and awake for 3 days.
The only way to experience this solar power thing, is to be out here, 24/ 7
A few hours rest, and your good to go again.

Tired boyer resting.

2 crews are now set up in our area.

We wait, for the lead to open so we can make a trail from the camp site to the lead !!

 

[David J. Eves]

Wait ! that is a large portion of the Inupiaq way of life, especially out here on the ice pack. Wait .. .. ..

Rest where you can, and when you can ! We still have to clear a trail from the tent site, to the lead opening, more work to do, every day, all day. If that wind shifts to west, we have to pack up and SCRAM. as quick as possible. Everyone is aware of the wind and which direction it is blowing. It is unbearable out here, when there is no wind. too hot. temps are above zero. everything is melting, the ice at the lead is about 5 foot thick. not near as thick as we would like it to be.

Filling in water holes, markers are placed where additional work needs to be done.

Wait, watch, look & listen.. .. .. all day !!

 

[David J. Eves]

Everyone, even some of the youngest boyers, are armed. Shooting accidents are virtually non-existant out here, and even in the village, but the amount of fire-arms out here, is obvious. Everyone needs some type of weapon, to hunt. but yesterday, we missed our prized Kodak moment.
The hunter of the day - (chuckle) it all happend so fast, we had no chance to capture this with a camera.

We were at the tent campsite, laid back, resting, this dude was lying on a sled, a flock of ducks flew so low over us, directly over us, in one swift movment, this boy's arm reached out grabeed a shovel and he jumped up in the air as high as he could, and batted a duck to the ground with one swift high arched swing !!. Hey how about that.. .. no bullets and I got another duck !!

Two crews are spread out over a vast area, we come together, near the lead opening, to set up the camp @ the lead, then there is more work to be done